We're starting another project at
Bikernet, the Ultimate Chopper. I dediced that
title was bullshit. I look at some of the bikes
built nowaday and mine pale by comparison,
so screw it. It's the Bandit/Sturgis 2005
Chop.
It's been
a couple of years since I built a bike for myself.
Hell, I can't ride the shrunken FXR,
it's too small. Besides I need a rigid
chopper for everyday flying. I gotta tell ya, I love
choppers, like women. They're sleek,
slim and move with an indescribable grace.
It doesn't hurt to take shots as you
tear an engine down, to keep track of what
goes where.
This engine was already set to go with a
Compu-Fire single-fire ignition.
Here's the design notion. No
we're
not trying to compete with the Martin Brothers,
Paul Yaffee or Matt Hotch, who are all master
craftsmen and artisans in the custom
motorcycle world. They are incredible and I
have the utmost respect for each one of them.
I'm sorta Indian Larry West. I want to
build a light agile chopper for the ride. I'll
attempt to explain. I've been riding
choppers most of my life. I've tried out
many styles, but consistently come back to the
mighty light weight chopper.
Get a bunch of clean boxes to store and
sort parts for final assembly.
Remember, you can't remove the
pump body without taking off the shaft clip
ring.
Let's get specific. I needed
something stretched to fit my 6-foot, 5-inch
frame so were going with a stretched
Paughco Rigid with 4 inches in the downtubes
and 3 in the backbone. But I'm sticking
with a very moderate rake of 35 degrees for
handling. I'm running a 9-over light
tapered leg Paughco springer for class and
city handling. I'll run my traditional
Custom Cycle Engineering risers for limited
handlebar vibration and traditional
appearance.
Place all the oil pump crap in the same
box.
Here's one of those little bastards.
Don't use them again. Get fresh
ones.
One of the notions is to make this bike a
very reliable, rideable chopper for long hauls,
maybe to Sturgis next year. I would generally
run a 96-inch Evo to fit the rule, but this time a
brother, Richard Kransler cut me a deal on a
Shovelhead engine with 3 5/8 bore and 5-inch
stroke. That over 100-inch monster would tear
this bike apart in short order so I called S&S
for advice.
We're going to roll with a tried
and true S&S formula for street power,
reliability and balance--same bore with
4.5-inch stroke will give me 93 inches of grunt.
I tore the engine down for modifications last
week and shipped the lower end to Viola,
Wisconsin for a S&S blessing.
There's another key and clip on the
inside of the cam case to remove the oil pump
drive shaft.
Here's the keys that drive the pump
gears. The fuckers are tiny, so don't lose
them. You can use them again.
In keeping with the chopper code of the
west, no fat assed tire will cramp the handling.
I'm going with only an Avon 180/18 and a
21 on the front. No wild billet wheels but clean
Custom Chrome polished aluminum rims
and 40 stainless steel spokes. This bike will
have a touch of chrome, but not much.
I'm going to start a bin of Stainless Allen
fasteners to take care of assembly.
I was forced by the gods of Permatex to
use a punch through the lifter stool hole in the
case to reach the back of the cam cover to
encourage its departure.
I devised a careful piston holder to prevent
them from banging around. You don't
want to damage the cylinder base area on the
cases. I had a tool for this years ago, but it left
me with one of my wives.
I'm not going to run anything that
sticks out from this bike, no sidemounted
license plate bracket or wide bars, just tall
risers and what I call TT bars that I will narrow
for splitting lanes on LA freeways.
I devised a tool for removing the pinion
shaft nut, which is left handed.
Here's that bastard removed from the
threads.
I may use a flush mount Sporty tank, or
perhaps a Cyril Huze job like the one on the
Shrunken FXR. What a sharp tank. I'll
use a BDL belt, Compu-Fire alternator/
regulator and single fire ignition for reliability.
We're mounting Kraft Tech fenders and
oil tank, making our own pipes and brackets.
Dewey's custom pegs will be used
because they're light and contain just
enough rubber to keep vibration away from
feet and hands. The foot and hand controls
are all Joker Machine for true reliability and
simple clean design.
I did dig out a puller that worked to snap
that gear loose.
Here's the key that holds that gear in
place. Don't lose the bastard.
The Jim's 6-speed overdrive tranny
is waiting a Custom Chrome Sprocket and
Rev Tech O-ring chain. Finally I'll
research the best possible sprung seat for
comfortable, vibration free ride.
Here's the last keeper ring on the oil
pump shaft on the pump shaft.
We're shooting for a bike that will be
solid for the long run. It'll run strong,
won't vibrate to shit, be reliable enough
to ride to Sturgis, a street fighter in the old
school fashion. Not a lot of flash, but
tremendous class. Watch as it comes
together right hear on Bikernet. Oh, I've
got a couple of tricks up my sleeve that will be
revealed as we turn this pile of parts into a
running gargoyle.
The alternator rotor came right off.
You get the opportunity to operate with
surgical precision digging out the flat coil
keepers that hold in the wrist pin and the
pinion roller bearing cages in place.
The Stator is easy to remove once the
locking plates are punched out of the way. But
make sure to back out the case Allen set
screw before you pull the guts out of the plug
(below).