Well it's getting that time again, warm weather and beautiful riding, long trips to freedom! Aaaah, Summer! My buddy Andy and I were talking about our annual upcoming ride to Laughlin and he decided he needed to change his riding position for the trip (old guys ya know). So, what to do? Change the seat, lower the bike, change the bars?? We decided to change the bars so his hands and arms are at a more comfy position. But which bars? There's literally hundreds of handlebar manufacturers. So I gave my buddy Chucky a call at LA Choppers to see what's new, he suggested their new Twin Peaks Bagger Bars.



He told me with the 10-inch rise bars, you do not need to change out the cables, and that they have been specially designed for Baggers with Bat Wing Fairings. We'll see!! They shipped them out and I received them in just a couple of days, Awesome!! They look great! They are 1 ¼-inch diameter with a 1-inch mounting at the clamps, also there is no step for the controls, they gradually taper down from 1 1/4 to 1-inch. This is a two-person job. First thing is raise the bike up on a bike stand, makes life easier! Now remove the outer fairing and windshield (5 screws).







While holding the outer fairing, reach down and disconnect the headlight. Set the fairing aside in a safe place. There are about six screws holding the inner fairing to the mounting bracket, loosen them so that the fairing can move around some.





Loosen the turnsignal bolts, you don't have to remove them, just loose! Next we removed the ignition switch and plastic around it.






The plastic piece has a screw on either side, check the service manual for ignition switch removal, it's tricky but not impossible. Basically unlock it, with key in it, push down and twist until it releases.





Now remove the four screws holding the radio in place and slide it back away from the handle bar clamps.




This should give you enough room to get a hex socket and ratchet into remove the clamps, but not yet. While the bars are still tight in the clamps, loosen all the control screws and remove the clutch, front brake and throttle grip and both switch housings.



Cut any zip ties or whatever is holding the wire runs to the bars. You can let them dangle out of harm's way or tape them up to something for the time being. On this bagger, it's throttle by wire, so you have to disconnect the wire connections before you remove the bars completely.



Now that all the controls have been removed, you can get the ¼-inch hex socket and ratchet with extension and remove the bars entirely. We had to push the fairing back and forth some to reach the fasteners with the socket and ratchet, (that's why we loosened the fairing mounting bolts). It's was no big deal. Once the bars are removed, we fed the internal wiring for the throttle housing gently while pulling on the throttle gear housing, feed it through until you see the two connectors and disconnect them.



Now the gear drive can be removed, pull the wires out and check for any damage that may have occurred.







Installing the new Twin Peaks is all in reverse of what you just did. Fish a wire or string through the bars, now tie the end of the internal throttle wires to it, use a little electrical tape and wrap it around the connections and string, spray a little WD40 in the bars so everything slides smooth while you pull the cable through.





Feed it until the connectors clear the end of the bar, remove the string and tape and reconnect the connectors. Now you can feed it back until the gear drive housing keys into place in the notches on the bar, it only fits one way so no worries.







Reinstall the controls, clutch and brake, the Twin Peaks bars have a slots cut for the cables to sit in. Make sure you don't end up with any pinched cables in your clutch or brake mounts, tuck the cables up in the slots for clearance. We took a reamer and widened the slot a bit, to make sure we have enough clearance for the cables. Always inspect for sharp edges, and smooth them to prevent slicing wires or cables.



Before you install the radio, sit on the bike and position the bars where you need them, then tighten the clamp bolts.



Make sure you’re happy, because once the radio and fairing are back on, it's a do-over to reach the clamp bolts again! Once the radio is secure, go back and tighten all the inner fairing mounting screws, turn signals and ignition case plastic. Reinstall the ignition and check that all your controls function. Turn your ignition on and make sure all you electrical systems are functioning, brake light, turn signals, radio, emergency flashers, running lights, headlight, etc. Well here it is, the finished product!



Looks great and it changed the riding position just about perfect for him. His arms are at a comfortable position, not too high, and not too low.
And his wrists are now straight instead of an outward angle as before. The Twin Peaks Bars from LA Choppers, have a sort of badass look too! So we ended up with the look and the feel he wanted. He's a happy camper!



If you're interested in the bars, check them out at LAChoppers.com, along with dozens of other really cool bars they make. Tell them Tail Gunner sent you.
On my scale of 1-10, I give them a 10 for function and appearance, they are innovative and have brilliant chrome. For difficulty of installation, I give them a 8+ (I hate working on Baggers).

www.lachoppers.com/
Drag Specialties P/N 0601-2012 $209.95