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Frankie's 2005 Dyna Rebuild, Part 3

Final Assembly Underway

By Bandit with photos by Wrench, Frankie and a redhead

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Frankie picked up his paint from Chris Morrison and Yvonne Mecalis in Harbor City. We were in the throes of final assembly. The first thing we needed to do before we could begin assembly included installing the wire loom we removed so Doctor John could straighten the frame.

We used a compressor to blow a length of cord down the backbone and pull the wire loom forward for the front end. That was an interesting exercise, and we took care and concern not to overdo it and damage any wires. We ran looms along the bottom of the frame to the regulator, the crank position sensor and over the engine to the EFI for the coil and the throttle body, plus the horn, which would be replaced with the Love Jugs Mini cooling system.

We found this racy shift arm at a swap meet. But ultimately it didn't work for his Dyna.
We found this racy shift arm at a swap meet. But ultimately it didn't work for his Dyna.

Once the wiring was back in place, I ran the throttle cables to the push and pull sides of the throttle body and adjusted them.

Once the wiring loom was back in place we carefully pulled the bike out of the lift clamps, jacked it up carefully and removed the 39-mm front end and installed the massive new 49-mm glide. We pulled the legs out of the new front end and installed accordion dust shields.

We also installed these cool Brass Balls tracker rider pegs.
We also installed these cool Brass Balls tracker rider pegs.

Installing the reasonably new 49mm front end was simple enough and it contained new handlebar rubber inserts. Frankie is a nut for those tall 14-inch T-bars and we had to fix the clutch bar end where it was damaged during his accident. We installed the old bars on the new front end and new Aeromach control levers and Brass Balls knurled aluminum grips but needed new brake lines.

The Brass Balls grips are machined from billet and the highest quality, no castings. The original brake lines came with the front end from Bennett’s performance, but they were designed to reach stock bars.

We needed a new set with a T-junction, and we did some measuring and sent Frankie to Bakers Performance in Signal Hill. This is a quirky little shop run by three middle-aged women. They sell only performance fittings for racecars and brake lines. It’s a dinky shop and Eric drags new builds over to Mrs. Baker and she sets him up with new brake lines and fittings.

I remember working with John Reed, Don Hotop, Carl Morrow and Mark Rowe on Jesse James' Monster Garage episode. We were scrambling to customize a wrecked Softail. The rest of the guys were masters who worked in their craft daily. I was just a hack mechanic and longtime motorcycle enthusiast. I handled a lot of the basic mechanical work, but was given the assignment to make the brake lines.

Yvonne working one of her originals.
Yvonne working one of her originals.

It was like a shop test: “Ball make the brake lines and bleed the brakes in 20 minutes or die trying.” This was one of those tasks. I knew how to do it, but hadn’t done it in years. I blinked twice, centered myself and went for it. It worked and I survived, but I like a highly qualified paid professional at my back sometimes.
In the middle of Frank's rebuild I started on a mural on the side of the Bikernet Headquarters to support the Wilmington Waterfront, but it had to contain a motorcycle...
In the middle of Frank's rebuild I started on a mural on the side of the Bikernet Headquarters to support the Wilmington Waterfront, but it had to contain a motorcycle...

There’s nothing wrong with reaching out for the best overall outcome. We installed the front end, checked the bearings, and re-greased them. But on the lift we did encounter a problem, the fork stops. They are different from the early front end, or there’s a difference in the frame configuration and the forks hit the tank. We still need to deal with that.

Wouldn’t it be cool if Harley carefully analyzed all their models and came out with a line of the best of the best, like the best Panhead, the best FXR, the best Sportster and the best Evo bagger? That’s all they would need forever.

We ran into another glitch. I was beginning to dig around the shop for brake fluids and started to question my feeble memory. I had a big can of DOT 3, no DOT 5 and some DOT 4. So what fit what? Check out the tech we put together.

JIMS distributes a set of test strips for brake fluids.
JIMS distributes a set of test strips for brake fluids.

We ran into one other glitch while installing the Metalsport 21-inch front wheel. Everything didn’t line up. As it turned out, the wheel needed to be aligned a particular way. The bearings are flush with the hub on the right side of the bike and inset on the left by about ¼-inch. This is just enough to prevent the rotors and the wheel to be out of alignment.

We needed to remount the tire, and then everything fit like a glove.

On a quiet day, I took on the task of carefully boring the transmission case for the larger swingarm axle, which took quiet time and a massive drill bit. I installed the newer, tougher H-D swingarm for a more stable ride, which meant a 25-mm rear wheel axles (almost 1-inch) front and rear. Watch out for these things. Like the brake fluids, the axle sizes keep changing, which create issues with wheels, bearings, you name it.

Then I installed the new Screamin’ Eagle H-D 13-inch shocks. The MetalSport wheel slipped perfectly in place with the matching pulley and brake rotor, but I was warned to retighten the pulley bolts. They have a tendency to loosen.

I also noticed the belt running very close to the new 180-rear tire. I wasn’t too concerned but when James, the Tile Man, showed up, he commented, “Oh my god the belt is too close to the tire. You’ve got to space out the pulley.”
I looked at my young grandson, who just turned 24 and saw that look, like a deer in the headlights. I dug into my wheel locker and came up with a Biker’s Choice spacer, but of course it didn’t fit. It was designed for a ¾-inch axle configured wheel.

We learned something quickly about my old Logan lathe. I unbolted the chuck jaws, turned them around and slipped the wide spacer into the jaws. We machined the opening slightly wider and it fit like a glove. We were making progress.

Then we started to install the sheet metal, but with a glitch. We wanted to replace all the stock cadmium-plated fasteners with stainless steel and had to hit True Value Hardware in Harbor City. If you don’t want to pay retail, go on line to McMaster Carr for all your fastener needs. They are amazing.

We installed the front fender, no problem. I installed most of the pieces on the top of the gas tank and fitted the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Frankie helped me install the tank, and then we moved onto the rear fender.

At that point, we needed to decide about his seat configuration and where to mount the Lowbrow taillight and license plate holder. We decided we could mount the taillight bracket so the seat would fit and a small portion of the fender containing the racing stripe would appear above and below the bracket. It was golden.

I found some goofy brass spacers to hold the plate bracket slightly off the paint for access and less damage to the new Chris and Yvonne paint job. Plus, I like a taste of brass on all my builds.

Here’s a note about Frankie’s new seat from Saddlemen:

Went down to Saddleman a couple weeks ago to talk to a good friend of my grandfather’s named Buster. Brought my stock Dyna seat and asked him what he thought would bring the bike more to life and he recommended the step-up seat.

I've been doing a little research and agreed with him 100 percent. He had a light brown one that said would do the trick and was ready to go. But after looking at it next to my paint, I decided not to go down that road. I wanted a clean black seat to match the frame of the ‘05 Dyna, but also wanted something custom and unique.

Buster showed me a few mock-ups of other seats they have done for clients recently and proposed the idea of the orange and silver stitching to tie everything in together. And man was he right. This seat came out clean and after a few minor adjustments due to my height they got it dialed in and ready to go.

I'm anxious to get it on my bike and take it out to test its comfort ability. I'm currently working on a painting for Buster's office over at Saddleman for all his help with this project. Thanks again to Buster and all the guys over at Saddleman for making this happen.

--Frank Ball Jr.

I let Frankie handle the Love Jugs installation. It’s a breeze and will cool his top end significantly.

Love Jugs Installation

STEP 1. Remove your seat by removing the screw located behind the seat. Lift the rear of the seat and pull the seat towards the rear of the bike.

STEP 2. Disconnect the gas line hose. IMPORTANT: this is a quick disconnect fitting, which works like an air hose fitting. Push the chrome collar up towards the tank, and pull the elbow down and it will easily disconnect. Only a couple of drops of gas will spill from the tank.

IMPORTANT: Do not try to unscrew the nut on the bottom of the tank. Doing that will cost you $75 for a destroyed plastic tube located inside the tank, and an hour of labor. Now, disconnect the tubes and electric plug connections, at the base of the tank. IMPORTANT Make sure all the connections have been disconnected before you remove your gas tank. Tip: It is a lot easier to remove your gas tank when it is empty or near empty.

STEP 3. Remove the chrome acorn nut that attaches your horn and horn cover assembly to the mounting bracket. Disconnect the two wires from the horn. Put this assembly aside for now.

STEP 4. Remove the two large bolts that attach the Harley Horn Bracket to the engine. You will not re-use this Harley horn bracket.

STEP 5. Attach bracket “A” as shown in the drawings. Place the bracket on the bottom of the frame with the rounded and protruding section facing the rear of the bike. (See drawing) Tip: Securing the T bracket to the bottom of the frame is really simplified if you temporarily tape the bracket to the frame, to hold it in position while you are installing the worm clamps. Center the bracket between the two heads. The placement is not too critical because there is a lot of adjustment in any direction that allows you to easily position your Love Jugs perfectly.

Loosen the worm drive screw completely so you can feed the now unattached end over the top of the metal frame, from the air cleaner side. Next, route the unattached end of the clamp through the slots in the base of the bracket. Insert the loose end of the clamp back into the hub of the clamp and turn the screw clockwise to catch the teeth.

We had a horn mount, so we didn't need this bracket.
We had a horn mount, so we didn't need this bracket.

See drawing. Use a ¼-inch drive ratchet, extension, and socket to tighten the clamp. When the two clamps have been tightened, check to make sure that the assembled bracket is straight, secure, and tight to the frame. Now that the clamps have been installed, you can snip or cut the excess material of the clamps if you wish, so no contact with the gas tank is possible.


IMPORTANT: Position the clamp’s hub so the entire hub is tucked under the bracket. Do not position the worm gear hub on the sides of the frame, because contact with the gas tank can cause the gas tank to rupture, and could result in a gasoline fire if the hub rubs against the gas tank.

STEP 6. Using the hardware provided, attach bracket “B” as shown in the drawings. When the brackets have been bolted together, it’s a good idea to check that the assembled bracket is firmly attached to your frame. Use two fingers to grab the bottom of the bracket and check if there is any movement when you jiggle it in all directions.) This super heavy duty, solid stainless steel bracket has to support a mere five pounds! Our frame mount bracket has been engineered to exceed that load requirement by a factor of 20 to 1.

STEP 7. Remove the two ¼-inch bolts that fasten the Harley horn cover to the chrome Harley horn bracket. You will not reuse these bolts. (Too short) Sandwich the Love Jugs main frame between the chrome horn bracket and the horn cover using the two new ¼-inch bolts, 5/8-inch long, and two ¼-inch flat washers, if you have room. Install two 1/4-inch nuts provided to add additional strength to the clips.
Make sure that the bottom bolt does not crush into the body of the horn. Harley has used different vendors for their horns over the years which are slightly different, so make sure to avoid a crushing situation of the bottom bolt. Note: You have a choice to have the Lit red switches on the top or on the bottom of the Love Jugs assembly, it does not affect the performance in any way.

STEP 8. Using the 5/16-inch x 18 stud provided, install the original Harley chrome washer and acorn nut to one end of the stud. Next, insert the stud into the Harley chrome horn mount bracket assembly complete with the Love Jugs cooling system sandwiched in the middle of the chrome Harley horn bracket and the Harley horn cover. Screw the three I/4-inch thick rubber washers onto the stud. Bolt the assembled Love Jugs unit and horn assembly into the Love Jugs name plate rod. 100 to 120 inch-pounds of torque is recommended on the chrome acorn nut.

STEP 9. Loosen the three setscrews on bracket (2) and slide the rod into the hole in the bracket. Align the Love Jugs so they are straight. Tighten the three setscrews with the Allen wrench that is provided for this step. Make sure that there is a minimum of one inch between the Love Jugs wire harness assembly and the engine.


Enjoy your cooler running engine!

If you have any further questions, contact us at info@love-jugs.com

Frankie is 24, a new world rider. Us old farts get a kick out of listening to the younger riders. Like Frankie is part safety, especially since his accident, and part outlaw, covered in tattoos. It’s a different world out there. He wears a full-face helmet and wanted to add a Lindby crash bar to protect himself and his baby, where I strip crash bars off everything and still hate helmets.

Since Frankie doesn’t run forward controls we simply bolted the stout black Lindby bars and highway pegs to his forward control mounts and the center down tube frame mount. And I made a bracket for his road luck and safety brass bell.

It was time to install his silver coated pipes from BDI. They were bare pipes initially designed by Dennis Manning before he sold Bub Enterprises to another biker, Ramsay, in northern California. I taught Frankie about the Biker’s Choice replacement exhaust gaskets and how delicate they are.

The best way to handle them is with a JIMS Machine special tool, which works like a champ for several applications. Of course we modified the exhaust system slightly for a tighter fit before taking the system to Engineered Applications in Vernon, California for coatings.

We are getting close to completion. We installed a new set of high performance Twin Power sparkplugs wires, and decided to haul the bike to Bennett’s Performance for a tune-up, wiring check, and finish the wiring of the rear fender.

We will report just after Eric Bennett chews me out for any of my blunders. Hang on!


Spectro Oils


Love Jugs

Lindby Bars
Click for action.
Click for action.

Biker’s Choice


MetalSport Wheels

Chris Morrison Custom Paint

Yvonne Mecialis
Yvonne is terrific to work with. Click for action
Yvonne is terrific to work with. Click for action

Click for action.
Click for action.

Baker Performance

Bennett’s Performance

BDI Exhaust

Doctor John Frame Straightening

Engineered Applications LLC Coatings

Two-Bit Choppers

The Bikernet Wilmington mural nearly completed.
The Bikernet Wilmington mural nearly completed.

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