Editors note: Before starting this project, make sure you have a rivet gun, good glue that works on all surfaces and liquid electric tape came in handy when the vent hose ripped at an elbow.

Ain’t it funny how a dab of makeup makes a woman come alive? That’s not intended as a sexist statement, but the crux of this story. I’ve been dating this lovely lady and over the last several months we’ve taken her from beginner riding courses through the visual and functional rejuvenation of her new 2004 Sportster Custom 1200. She’s gone from a new rider, disillusioned by a couple of minor clutch-action falls, to a woman who can ride anything and who wants more from her stock motorcycle.All in nine months. A whirlwind, and she’s faced the myriad of transformations most new Harley riders face; one day enamored by their glistening new Harley and tomorrow it’s just not enough.

I’ve ridden and modified Harleys for some 39 years, so I stood back and watched while we’ve added Harley-Davidson doodads, saddlebags for touring, Samson pipes and a Mikuni carb to open the performance door, chrome and custom H-D accessories. Now she was ready for a new paint job.

The Harley factory has offered the custom paint program for several years. Through the Spectrum Custom Color Creation program we have the freedom to select from an almost unlimited combination of colors—color-matched for current or discontinued Harley-Davidson paint schemes—or select from an endless number of automotive-style color combinations. We could supply our own sheet metal or buy a replacement set. Either way we can create our own look and still retain the quality expected of a factory-painted Harley motorcycle. Every year new custom paint schemes are offered, from traditional flames to tribal graphics, broadening the Color Shop spectrum.

She spent weeks in dealerships, thumbing through the catalogs and playing on the Web trying to decide which way to turn. Sure, I tried to keep my mouth shut—fat chance. With tender prodding from me she chose the Ghost flame custom color set, bright silver on platinum. “Float over the pavement like an early morning fog,” the brochure said. “The smooth tone-on-tone platinum base with steel silver flames drifts from front to rear, interrupted only by the bold black H-D logo on the tank. The ghost-flame effect screams classic for years to come.”

After waiting several months, the replacement sheet metal arrived unscathed from the factory and she carefully uncrated each shimmering part and wiped the deep clear-coated surface clean. John Gilbert came to help and he unbolted the front fender and the new one slipped right into place with a dab of Loctite on each bolt.

Since we were removing the fuel tank, and wiring was involved on the rear fender, we removed the seat and disconnected the battery. Then we removed the gas line from the Mikuni carb and set up a very safe drain hose connection to a sizable gas can, but no gas poured forth with the petcock turned on. Then I remembered ol’ Buster’s Sportster breakdown when he replaced his sheet metal, filled it with gas and it wouldn’t start. He failed to replace the vacuum line from the pet- cock to the carb. This line is connected to the float bowl. As soon at the bike starts it creates a vacuum and pulls the switch behind the petcock allowing the fuel to flow. But if the bike won’t run, neither will the fuel. I had to overcome the vacuum demand. It could be accomplished with any vacuum gun or a pressure pump for bleeding brakes. I had neither. Layla grabbed the shop vac and it worked. We drained the tank, unbolted the front and rear through-frame bolts and the tank was off.

The petcock unscrewed from the tank without a problem and we used an old trick that works with any new mechanical effort—we took digital pictures so we had a reference to how the gas and vacuum lines ran. It helped.

A The trick to the petcock is that its lever location is adjustable. We had to hold it loose as we installed it while aiming the lever to the outside, then tighten the clamping nut. We hooked up the gas and vacuum lines with new ones and we were ready to rock.

Lastly, the rear fender had to be swapped. We started by removing the saddlebags, taillight lens and bulb, then the connectors in the taillight base assembly by depressing them. We wrapped tape around one of the turn-signal connectors so we would know which wires connected to the white, left turn-signal connector. We then removed the three ¼-20 nuts under the fender and dropped the turn-signal bar and license-plate bracket. Layla removed the taillight base screw and it was clear.

Then I jacked up the frame and removed the rear axle to drop the rear wheel for access to the underside of the fender. This can also be accomplished by removing the two lower shock bolts.

Layla removed the seat post bolt while I pushed out the saddlebag bolts. The fender was loose but not completely disconnected. We needed to remove the 1CM box under the seat and disconnect the fender wiring loom. The old was out and in with the new, but.. .not so fast, Kimosabe. Several rivets had to be drilled out (follow your manual, sorta) so the wire retention brackets could be removed and the rear fender dust extension would come off.

We dug around for the rivet gun we haven’t used in years and with some small washers on the rubber side we replaced the rivets. A buddy had once reminded me to use blue painter’s masking tape anytime I’m working with painted sheet metal. We used it everywhere as we assembled the fender seat kit, the seat post grommet and prepared to reattach the rubber wire loom that was glued to the inside of the old fender with a strong adhesive.

John used buffalo snot (3M weatherstrip glue) and water to adhere it to the inside of the fender. For a strong and lasting grip we rough-sanded the surface, pressed it into place and held it down with masking tape.

The fender was returned to its rightful position and each element, including the rear fender brace, was bolted into position. The job was now complete, and the bike looked damn cool, if I do say so myself. It gained true unity with the black and chrome chassis, and the black leather-covered bags fit right into the package. She was impressed so she took me to dinner. I must have done something right. See, a little make-up helps.

Layla’s Note: Being involved with all the modifications on this bike really helped me to become more familiar with it and less intimidated by it. I learned a lot about the new Sportster, and everyone who rode it was truly impressed with the rubber-mount upgrade.

Thanks for taking the time to go through our 2004 Sportser Custom re-vamp Report!