Last issue we handled chroming the front end using factory chromed replacement parts, but we stopped. Can’t work all night when a woman enters the shop wearing something slinky while offering a glass of Jack Daniels. It’s a safety issue, right? (Can’t drink and operate a Phillips screwdriver.) So this issue we’ll hit another batch of chrome from top motor mount to front rubber mounts, to pegs, shift linkage, side covers, regulator cover and head bolt covers.

This project was reasonably full speed ahead, basically a remove-and-replace operation. There weren’t any glitches, special tools or major obstacles. Don’t forget, in most cases, each component is equipped with complete instructions. For instance, Layla had chosen the polished, custom stainless-steel shift linkage. The instructions called for adjusting the length of the rod to match the existing shifter-rod linkage to ensure that the shifter pedal will remain in the same position. This is the moment to adjust the shifter position to suit yourself. Slide the longer cap screw through the tie-rod end, place the rod linkage on the outside of the front shifter lever, thread the cap screw into the shifter rod and tighten to l0-to-15 foot-pounds of torque.

Next I slid the shorter cap screw through the right tie-rod end on the new shifter rod linkage and placed the rod on the outside of the rear transmission lever. I threaded it into position and tightened it to 10-to-15 foot-pounds of torque and was done.

Since she didn’t plan to pack passengers we removed the rear pegs, but replaced the front units and shifter peg with H-D Bullet-style rubber insert pegs. I prompted Layla to run with rubber inserts to avoid vibration, shoe wear and abraded chrome, and to allow for long-distance comfort. There’s nothing worse that careening across the desert to escape an impending warrant and fighting all the way to keep your feet on the pegs.

These pegs are simple to install with a 5/16-inch screw and split washer from the kit. Insert the screw through the peg from the inside and then install the split washer. Use Loctite and install the shifter peg to the lever. We aligned the peg so the rubber insert faces upward and then adjusted for her female comfort. Then I grabbed the rubber shift insert and 10-32 screw, aligned and installed the insert into the peg assembly. Don’t forget the Loctite and tighten it. Done deal.

The rider pegs were installed in similar fashion. We needed to save the hardware from the existing pegs. The rounded edge of the footpeg-support mount must be positioned upward and the square edge of the spring washer must be aimed at the inside of the foot- peg support. We slid the new footpeg mount and stock spring washer into the support and tightened the nut and bolt to 19 foot-pounds. We kept the adjuster screw loose until Layla sat on the bike and we tested the foot position. Then we tightened it to 21 foot-pounds.

Finally, soapy water was applied to the underside of the rubber insert and we slid it into the grooves on the footpeg, then pressed the end firmly into the rubber insert lock tab on the end.

We also replaced all the rubber mounts and what was once the top motor mount on a solid mount bracket. The instructions call for placing the bike on a lift or somewhere steady since the engine needs to remain comfortably in alignment during this process.

The instructions recommended that we begin with the bottom motor mount, removing the two Torx cap screws and washers. With it removed we pushed the tie-link bar forward between the downtubes to provide adequate access to remove the tie-link bar screw. At the opposite end of the tie-link bar we removed the fastener and tossed it. We had new fasteners. Unfortunately the factory didn’t offer chrome tie-link bars.

We moved onto the top motor mount and removed the screw securing the end of the tie bar to the upper motor mount, then removed the mount on the frame. Then the plate bolted to the engine was removed. With new fasteners and factory chromed components we bolted all the pieces back in place to 25-to-35 foot-pounds. It was a little bit of a puzzle reaching some of the fasteners, but no big deal.

Next we shifted to what once was the top motor mount. First we held the chrome dome nut on the outside of the horn bracket and removed the flange nut in the back, disconnected the two horn connectors, and set that puppy aside. In this case we needed to save the fasteners. We removed the choke, or enrichener assembly, from the mounting bracket by loosening the brass nut in back of the bracket holding the plastic thumbnut in front. We removed the two Allen screws on the top of the mount and away it went. We made sure to order the chrome bracket for the 1200 custom, since we screwed up the order in other aspects.

I mounted the new chromed horn/enrichener bracket to the top of the mount bracket with new fasteners, then with additional chrome bolts tightened them to 30-to-35 foot-pounds on the heads. Then it was a matter of attaching the enrichener thumbscrew, connecting the horn wires and bolting the horn back in place.

As I wrapped up this operation we added the chrome enrichener knob cover with a dab of Loctite to the threads of the screw. This slips right over the existing knob. For another bit of detail we switched out the fasteners holding the gas tank and tightened them to 15-to-19 foot- pounds with Loctite.

After a lunch of Sam Adams and a turkey sandwich to die for, we installed the chromed left side cover. It pulled away from the frame by grasping the top corners. I lifted it slightly so the mounting grommet cleared the mounting tab on the battery tray. Then I just placed the new side cover and grommet onto the mounting tab, lined up the top side cover, aligned the front clip, and pressed them into place snugly.

Getting down to the bottom line, I replaced the black oil bag cover with a chrome unit. I pressed down on the tiller dipstick and released it for this installation. Then I removed the right-hand side cover by gently prying the bottom lip of the cover tab, lifting the cover up slightly so the mounting holes on the top clear the mounting posts. I placed the top of the new side cover onto the right side of the oil tank so the mounting holes in the top of the cover fit onto the mounting posts. Pressing the bottom of the side cover back into place so that the slot snapped onto the mounting tab, I needed to note that the filler cap has a wide slot and a narrow slot and can only be inserted into the oil tank one way. Remember that the most difficult operation on this bike is removing and installing this slippery dipstick. Make sure your hands are clean.

The finned head-bolt covers were the only non-chrome items, but they clean up the top of the engine. Watch that there’s a different one for the front and the rear, which is cast into the bottom. I installed the mounts with a dab of silicone to prevent vibration from jarring them loose. Then it’s just a matter of dropping the proper cover in place and installing the cap screws through /the top. (I almost forgot to replace/the spark plug wires.)

Finally, I installed the chrome regulator cover with new screws (tightened to 10-to- 12 inch-pounds) and extensions. Nothing to it. The operation was complete. Now we could either ride up the coast and lounge in our favorite bar overlooking the wild Pacific, or break out a can of Pledge and wipe down all the fresh chrome. I preferred the notion of chasing her cute form around the shop.

Next we plan to add a set of Harley-Davidson custom-paint sheet metal and call it quits. It already rides and looks outstanding, and with the paint it should look like a million bucks. Then she’ll be embarrassed to ride along side my grungy Panhead.