Layla wanted to add a touch of chrome to her 1200 Custom Sportster. In the old days this would require downtime and Layla’s bike would be un-ride able during the chroming process, which could take weeks or months. But she had a better chrome connection—Harley-Davidson’s accessory catalog.

Over a romantic pizza and beer, I let the list fly. We kicked off aesthetics with front-end components. We considered wheel options but stuck with the classic stock, laced units with chrome rims, but Layla wanted to switch the rotor to a chromed teardrop floating center, chromed lower legs, chromed hand levers, chromed switch covers, billet chromed mirrors and a chromed front brake reservoir cover. This would be a fairly simple operation that could be handled without major special tools, except one (fork seal and bushing tool, HD36583), in an afternoon.

There were elements that demanded Sportster manual reference: replacing the lower legs, the switch housings and levers; and cable adjustments. As usual the instructions accompanying H-D components are very complete, so don’t toss them or use them as coasters.

I sat over a Sam Adams and read each guideline carefully while she disconnected the battery for safety.

We called Buster to help, with promises of all-you-can –eat sandwiches made by Layla. After I read through all the instructions we backed the bike onto the lift and clamped it securely into place. Next we jacked up the chassis to remove the front wheel. It’s generally wise to jack it up just enough so that the axle can be removed, yet leave the wheel touching the ground.

As Layla fixed killer tuna sandwiches, I slipped a jack under the 1200 frame just behind the curve of the downtubes so it wouldn’t slip or kick the jack out under pressure. I checked for anything lower than the frame rails and discovered that the pipes hung down, so I slipped a 2-by-4 under the frame rails so the jack wouldn’t push against the pipes.

After the wheel was removed we took off the front brake caliper and bungeed it out of the way so it didn’t hang by the hydraulic brake lines. I got an old coffee can and, with a Phillips screwdriver, removed the bleeder screw from behind one of the legs. Here’s a tip; the oil won’t begin to drain until the top tube cap is loosened, then all 10 ounces squirts from the hole.

I waited until after I ate my sandwich and finished my beer before making that mess. Don’t forget replacement H-D Type E fork oil (HD-99884-80, 16 oz.).

Here’s another trick. I knew that when I loosened the top tube cap the exploding spring pressure was just waiting, so I used a 13/8-inch socket, keeping my palm pressing a rag firmly over my ratchet. That handled it fine.

These Showa front ends are overseas products and have metric internal fasteners. I attempted to be very careful with these Allens, the copper washers and the damper tube cup or sleeve inside the aluminum fork leg. The seal between these components is crucial. If they don’t mate properly they’ll leak.

I used a small screwdriver to free the chromed dust shield after finding the slot, then carefully worked my way around the leg prying the rubber dust seal free from the leg. The factory recommends replacing both the dust and the oil seal if they are worn. I popped the internal fork clip free with that small flat-blade screwdriver. Next, I used the lower leg to hammer the seal free by sliding it up and down the inner tube.

Once the fork leg slipped free of the damper tube, I grabbed the sleeve and cleaned it thoroughly, drained the lower leg, set it aside and cleaned the new chromed job. I cleaned all the components carefully.

We slipped on the new chrome lower leg making sure the sleeve was properly cleaned and oiled. I tightened the metric Allen snug, and then Buster held the leg up from its bottom position while I tapped the oil seal back into place using a handmade tool. It would be a better idea to have a factory or JIMS seal tool for this operation. Mine was a big nut (something to hit with a mallet) welded to a 1 1/2-inch long piece of 1 ¾ exhaust pipe that’s cut in half (to fit around the fork tube). I wrapped it with duct tape to prevent damage to the fork tube and put it to work. It works fine.

With the seal tapped below the internal clip ring notch, we replaced the clip and slipped on the dust seal, then the dust cover rode right into place. With one leg complete and refilled with fork oil (the manual calls for 10 ounces in each leg), I jumped on the lift, compressed the fork spring with the tube cap and my ratchet, and turned the cap under my quivering hand. It’s a tricky operation that demands care and patience. If that cap escapes, it could dent or scratch the bike’s tank or knock a tooth out.

We had removed the front fender and covered the tank with a protective cover. Still, patience was demanded until the cap threads mated with the fork tube. If I suspected cross-threading, I immediately backed off and gave it another shot.

I removed the stock front wheel rotor and, with new factory fasteners, replaced it with the new chromed-center, teardrop floating rotor. I tightened all the Torx fasteners to 1 6-to-24 foot- pounds of torque. Then it was a matter of carefully replacing the front axle with the spacers located in the identical locations as before. After the axle was tightened to 50-to-55 foot-pounds, we tightened the front axle pinch screw to 21 -to-27 foot-pounds.

The front end already looked much cleaner. Then I removed the stock mirrors and began work on the grips and switches.

Here’s another trick; since we were removing the switch housings and levers, it gave us access to the throttle cables, clutch cable and lever pins. It was an opportunity to lubricate all these items for long-term reliability, and to readjust all the cables. I loosened the adjustment on the clutch cable near the frame downtube and made the outer cable as short as possible for the most slack.

There are clips under the lever pivot pins on both sides that need to be carefully removed—try not to lose them. One of the new chrome levers came with a replacement clip but the other didn’t.

It’s ironic how the seemingly simplest operations are time-consuming and delicate. That’s the case with grip and lever operations. A lot of things are involved on each end of the handlebar, including clutch, brake and throttle actions, electrical switches, turn signals and mirrors. The turn signal and the mirror were removed, as well as the clutch cable, lever and Teflon pivot pin, and set aside. Then the lever clamp was loosened and the switch cover split by removing two 25 Torx screws.

This is the delicate side of the story, replacing the chromed switch housings. I took note of the switch, bracket and wiring positions and the directions they run from the housings. They’re crucial. I unscrewed the Phillips screw and set it aside. Then while the position of all the elements was fresh in my mind I picked up the new chrome unit, placed a drop of Loctite on the fastener, carefully repositioned the switches in place with the wires heading in the correct direction, and then attached the fastener. I did the same operation with the bottom switch housing noting the position of the wires in relation to a tie-wrap that needed to be replaced. I undid the screw, pulled the switches free, and replaced the tie-wrap, but didn’t attach it until the bracket and switches were replaced and fastened.

The wiring loom blocked access to the screw. The trick to this operation is observation, patience and not forcing anything. I discovered that two of the housings are almost identical and attempted to install one on the wrong side. Fortunately I discovered the problem by the case notches.

Now the switch housing for the left side was ready to roll. The instructions called for using a knife for peeling the stock grip free from the bar. I used WDD40 and a long, narrow flat-bladed screwdriver. I shoved the screwdriver under the lip of the grip followed by a shot of lubricant, then worked the screwdriver around the grip until it busted loose. It slipped right off.

I cleaned the bar and inserted the new, chromed Aileron grip, which fits only one way. This grip was shoved all the way onto the bar, then the switch housing was mated with it and the lever housing simultaneously connected to the switch clamp. I got Layla to snug the lever housing mildly first, then the switch housing. With everything loose, we installed the clutch cable in the new chromed lever with the Teflon anchor pin and inserted it in the lever housing with the pivot pin and clutch lever bushing.

While Layla made sure the position for all the elements was comfortable while sitting on the bike, I adjusted the clutch cable and replaced the boot.

Here’s another trick: Before you pull the boot over the cable adjustment mechanism, oil it or smear it with grease to prevent rust. Then she tightened everything starting with the lever clamp top screw to 60-to-80 inch-pounds of torque, the bottom screw, the switch housing bottom screw, the top screw to 35-to- 45 inch-pounds of torque, and then installed the new chromed dome billet-styled mirror.

We shifted to the right handlebar. In this case the throttle cables needed to be loosened under the throttle and the cable ends removed from the carburetor. I made sure to note which one went where. The chromed switch housing was replaced in the same fashion as the left bar, except the front brakelight switch sprung wedge needed to go then the switch popped free. The factory recommended that we place a 5/32-inch thick piece of cardboard about 1 ½-inches long between the master cylinder piston and the lever to allow removal without damaging the boot or plunger.

I watched out for the tiny throttle brass ferrules. If they pop free, no doubt they will roll under the lift, bench, or whatever, and hide out. Again with the new Aileron grip I greased the groove in the black plastic throttle, the cable end and the ferrule to protect them in the future and to hold them in place during this operation. I also spent some time oiling each cable with a light industrial lubricant.

Layla pressed the piston cap forward as I slipped the new chromed lever in place. We replaced both clip rings under the lever housings on the lightly greased pivot pins. Then the works could be replaced after the switch operation previously described. This side needed the brake switch replaced and the sprung wedge with a dab of silicon to hold it in place. We slipped the throttle grip onto the greased bar end until it bottomed, and then backed it off just a tad to prevent future binding.

The Torx 25 and 27 screws were screwed in lightly, the lever positioned, then tightened. Finally the throttle pull (larger diameter 5/16-inch) and push (smaller diameter 1/4-inch) cables were adjusted, tested and adjusted again. I adjusted the pull (throttle) cable first, maintaining 1/8- inch of slack, then adjusted the idle cable.

Layla installed the right mirror, sat her cute butt in the seat and adjusted both mirrors to her satisfaction. After she reinstalled the battery, she checked the throttle, front brake, clutch and all the switches once more. Then she went for a test ride.

Next issue we’ll hit the remaining chromed H-D components, and in the following issue cover the Harley-Davidson color shop with a new paint job for the 2004 Sportster Custom. It better look damn sharp, or I’m in trouble.