LONG HAUL ACCESSORIES

I met this sharp, brunette new rider at the Fo'c'sle saloon and was introduced to her new 2004 Custom 1200 Sportster. Our relationship blossomed until I mentioned the Laughlin River Run. Her constant smile wavered and sank. She wanted to ride along, but was concerned about packing gear for the desert run. I scratched the back of my neck perplexed.

I suspected that I'd face this cross-road sooner or later and wondered what solutions other brothers considered in similar situations. I suppose most are relieved when their women ride and they're no longer saddled with packing double. Then again... I dismissed the dilemma and in a positive mood offered to help her with the packing problem.

Harley-Davidson now has 64 pages in their 832 page catalog devoted to Sportster accessories. That doesn't account for Sportster related Screamin' Eagle performance parts, either. We jumped on a set of soft leather covered bags and a detachable windshield. Harley offers six versions of Saddlebags from hard fiberglass to leather, leather coated hard bags and synthetic. I discovered that if she mounted them with a detachable kit she could add sissybars, solo racks, or luggage racks in the future. Another bag consideration are the new teardrop turn signals. I quickly discovered that she wanted to retain the blinkers. I would have tossed them in the shitcan and cleaned up the rear of the bike, but no. She chose rigid premium leather encased saddlebags with a classic hard-shell design with locking hinged lids and plenty of room. Unfortunately we needed to move the turn signals and rewire them.

She called me the minute they arrived and offered Sam Adams and barbecued ribs as and incentive. The nape of her neck was impetus enough for me. The installation directions accompanying Harley parts are incredibly complete, if you read them carefully and don't use them for beer coasters. This Bag kit was designed for installation on 2004 and later XL model motorcycles (except XL motorcycles equipped with rear axle covers or bobtail fenders).

I read that line a couple of times. With the myriad of new models, part mix-ups are easy to encounter. The first note included the recommendation to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable. I found it easier to reach the positive cable, but the point is to disconnect the battery while messing with anything electrical.

I jacked up the rear of the bike under the frame making sure to miss the kickstand stop. When the weight was relieved from the rear tire, I unsnapped the axle locking device and removed the axle. Then I could jack the frame high enough to replace fasteners and rewire the turn signals under the fender.

For awhile she peered over my shoulder as if I was operating on her child. I had hit another crossroad. If it was her motorcycle she needed to know it or know how to make bitchin' breakfast burritos. I still missed Maria. More health conscience Samantha made thick tasty protein shakes and was willing to get her hands greasy. I sat back on a barstool and instructed her to remove the taillight lens and disconnect the turn signals, then snip the wires just 4 to 6 inches from the plugs. We started a Sportster box to house any parts or fasteners we removed. She held a 1/2 open end wrench under the fender while I used a torx wrench to remove the fender rail cover and turn signal. Then I pulled the unit off the bike on each side pulling the wire through the hole in the fender rail. It took a 5/8s deep socket to remove the turn signal stud from the chrome rail cover.

At this point the directions called for removing the black insulating conduit coating the two turn signal wires. I didn't read that line and attempted to re-install the right turn signal with the protective conduit in place. Big mistake. I drilled out the new stem, greased the wire, retapped the stud, fought the wire, stuck myself with a thread burr, but never gave up. I succeeded, but wouldn't recommend it.

So here's the right way: With a small screwdriver she gently pried the reflector and rubber grommet from the housing and pulled the wires out of the back hole and tossed the existing support stud and nut into the Sportster archive box.

The factory directions called for using a drop of liquid soap on the wires to ease insertion through the stalk or use a thin wire to assist with pulling the wires through. I installed the chrome jam nuts onto the turn signal bar and routed the wires through the threaded hole in the turn signal body, through the recess cover plate, that covered the old wire hole, through the new 5/16 lock washer, and inserted the wires into the turn-signal bar end and out the hole a few inches from the end.

I discovered that it was easier to just insert the wires into the shaft then install the turn signal on the shaft to prevent twisting the wires into a knot in the shaft. I noted that the wiring holes in the chromed bar have a correct position with the holes facing down once it's mounted. I asked Samantha to keep that in mind, so I wouldn't fuck it up during installation.

With the bulb and lens installed in each turn signal I set it aside and we escaped the wiring aspect and removed the existing license plate mount. I have a memory like a parakeet so I asked her to note how the damn thing went together. She placed the new mounting pad on the fender and with an Exacto blade cut a hole for the wires to feed through the existing hole in the fender. Ya got me why the rubber pad with three mounting holes didn't contain the wiring hole?

According to the factory directions they called for routing the wires through the fender at this point and hard splicing them under the fender. I used blade connectors that would feed through the fender. That allowed me to attach the turn-signal bar and the signal plug on the inside of the taillight junction box then fasten the connectors under the fender.

Okay, so she carefully routed the wires through the fender and we installed the new license plate bracket and turn-signal bar with the two studs inserted through the license plate bracket holes and into the holes in the fender. I threw away the new reflector plate, but used blue Loctite on the nuts while securing the bracket. We carefully rotated the turn signals to a stationary rear facing position then tightened the jam nuts.

The kit comes with butt connectors that shrink wrap around the wires. We didn't use them or the loom that came with the kit. I used 1/4-inch shrink wrap and several matches to secure the wires. The kit also comes with adhesive wire clips to guide the under-fender wires. I wiped the inside of the fender with isopropal alcohol, peeled the adhesive paper and Layla crawled under the fender to press the wire clips to the clean surface. I coached her to position them to protect the wires from tire abrasion. Then it was cool to reconnect the wires.

The rest of the operation was a breeze. We installed the two long 5/16 bolts through from the inside of the fender through the frame member and the chrome fender rail cover. On the outside we installed two spacers, the short one in the front and the long one on the rear stud with the shoulders away from the fender-rail.

Layla held the studs while I installed the bags and started the 5/16 locking nuts, although I added a drop of blue Loctite to each fastener, then tightened them to 24-27 foot pounds of torque. The kit comes with two protective rubber caps to cover the protruding stud threads. I cut the one shorter for the rear stud and slipped them into place. Also two hole plugs came with the kit to cover the old turn-signal holes. Layla shoved them into place.

We took a long lunch break, tasted the iced-down Sam Adams, took a shower together and returned to the garage to tackle the detachable windshield. They're a pain in the ass, but on a long fast run, will save your ass and make the ride much more comfortable. The lengthy directions with the Harley-Davidson product were thorough and simple.

It's actually a breeze to install, except for the beginning where the factory took a page to discuss re-routing the clutch cable on various models. I'm still not sure I understand what they were talking about, but the clutch cable moved comfortably and didn't interfere with the new Windshield. Generally, they didn't want the clutch cable running in front of the top triple tree.

Layla cleared off a bench and laid a soft cloth on it to allow assembly of the chromed detachable clamps on the inside of the stainless windshield legs. Using the illustration in the instructions drops of blue Loctite and an Allen wrench the clamps fastened simply. We didn't tighten them completely until the windshield was mounted to the narrow glide front end.

The factory directions warned to keep the front end straight during the process to prevent scratching. The Lexan windshield was very flexible and allowed spreading to clear the headlight or align the clamps. They also warned about throttle cable clearance and attached a rubber guide to the stainless steel bracket preventing abrasion and pinching of cables. We checked it out and had plenty of clearance.

That was it. Simple. The factory brochure warned extensively about the care of the Lexan Windshield material. They warn against using paint thinner, gas, benzine or any other harsh cleaning agents. They also warned against harsh sunlight reflecting off the inside curvature of a any windshield which can cause extreme heat build-up on motorcycle instruments. Never thought much about that on my old Panhead. Hell, never had a windshield or a women who rides. Learn something new everyday.