One item that was wrong with my Sportster included front end wallowed in corners. With my Buell that was never a problem so I am using the complete Buell front end. It has 43mm Showa forks with adjustable pre-load and rebound. The front brakes use a single 340mm disc with 6-piston calipers. They don't say it anywhere but the calipers look exactly like the PM Progressive calipers, just not polished or chromed. It's all low mileage and the thick forks make the front end look aggressive. Just the way I like it.

Since I wanted to use the Buell 43mm forks finding a set of triple trees that didn't look like crap was a priority. At first the only ones I could find were racing replacements for the Buell. These all had the pinch bolts in the front of the trees. That's fine for a race bike, but it didn't pass the taste test. I finally found people selling 43mm complete front ends and checked out who the manufacturers were. It seems a company called GCB made the trees and Ceriani made the forks. I searched the web and found a website for GCB and contacted them.

They weren't as religious with their e-mail as I try to be. Anyway, I was able to find the details on part numbers and prices, was told how to make the buy and off I went. They made a set with the exact same spacing as my Buell so the fender and cross mount would fit correctly.

Man, was I happy to get the damn things in my hands. Unfortunately they didn't send me the stem bolt or nut. The catalog showed them, the website showed them but they weren't in the box. I tried contacting them many times over the next two months. Not one time did they even reply.

I don't expect to ever hear from them again.

I was fucked. I had a set of trees, that I paid (those bastards) over $500 for (polished, not chromed) and couldn't use them. I tried in vain to buy the stem bolt somewhere, but no luck. Finally I took my problem to my buddy Joel at J & T CNC. He took a couple minutes to see what I had and made some machining suggestions. Another problem conquered.

Joel spent a lot of time making me a perfect stem bolt, and in the bargain we made the original triple tree design better. The GCB design didn't include a positive stop for the bottom of the stem bolt. They relied on the clamping of the stem bolt to keep it from pulling right out of the lower tree. Joel took one look at that and convinced me we needed to fix it.

Joel added a step to the bottom of the stem, which acts as a positive stop for it. He then countersunk the bottom of the lower tree to give the step a place to seat. Works bitchin' and looks great because the bottom of the lower tree is flush.

I got all the parts home and got ready to install the trees. I bought chrome neck cups from Atlas when I bought the frame so that was already taken care of. I used a long bolt with a couple pieces of aluminum to press the neck cups into the neck. Then reused the Buell neck bearings. These pieces only had 9000 miles on them and I can always put a new set in after the mock up is done.

After the trees were installed I slipped the Buell fork tubes into place and lightly clamped them. On the final assembly this will all need to be torqued to the proper specs, but this is just a mock up so I made sure they were secure and moved on.

The Buell front fender uses a mount that you could loosely term a fork brace. It's not too strong in that respect but I figure with the stout forks it's probably enough. Eric Buell really does great design job. I wanted to say that because it might have sounded like I don't appreciate him. I DO.

I picked up a set of Arlen Ness Petite hand controls from Randy Aron at Cycle Visions, San Diego. They are good looking controls and not bulky. Randy has a used parts bin in his shop where I've picked up bargains many times. I found the brake side there for only $150 and made a deal with him for the clutch mount. There are two switches built into each side with this model. They are low amp switches though so I'll have to use a relay for the starter solenoid. I'm using LED blinkers and a special blinker module that doesn't need a bunch of current so I can wire it directly. More about wiring later.

I already had a set of pull back risers that placed the bars in a good spot. I bolted them into the top tree using a set of stock style inserts. I could have used urethane but I prefer to have the extra cush the rubber ones give. Why add to the vibration in the controls. Next I bolted in the Flanders handlebars I'm using. These don't have dimples or holes anywhere on them. I had an old set of bars I was going to use originally, but they are dimpled for internal wiring. That deforms the tube just enough that the Ness controls wouldn't go on. After I get to the wiring I'll use a center drill and put a hole in the bars for the switch wires.

The bike still needs mirrors, but I haven't settled on a pair yet. The lights, gauges and other electrical stuff will be handled in a separate story. But, being me I just couldn't hold off putting the head light in place at least. It's a classic Paughco 1310 headlight. Fits right in with the classic feel I'm going for with the bike.

Some of you might notice that the engine is in some of the pictures. Well I didn't get good shots of all this the first time, so I pulled it all off and reassembled it. Do not put your motor in before the chassis is a roller. Next I'll show you how the Buell rear wheel and brakes go in, the fender gets mounted and the tank and seat. Just so I can sit on it for a picture.

--Rebel

WIRING SIDEBAR

I revised the bike wiring diagram, using the ignition switch with a start position. I like that idea, it makes the wiring a lot cleaner. I eliminated whatever wires I could since I was changing things. I think this is the cleanest you probably can get with electric everything and blinkers.

The Ness brake control doesn't have a switch in it for the brake light. I'm just going with the pressure switch on the rear brakes. I never use the front without rear brakes, so I'm not worried. Could always add a pressure switch to the brake line, also.

--Rebel

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