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We measured the length of the wires from the switches to the plugs, then compared that measurement to the new highbars and determined that we needed to extend the wiring 13 inches to insure the proper length. Add an inch just for safe keeping. This aspect was measured carefully several times.

Then the left switch loom was attacked first by drawing the back of the plug on the stainless bench top with a felt pen. We noted each color coded wire and position before removing the wires from the plugs. Do it from the back so you're in the same position when you reinstall the wires.

Sure, here's another shot of a diagram, but it's damn critical to insure the wiring is correct, so pay attention. Note, that we made indications on the drawing to indicate the top from the bottom of the plug.

We added sections of 13-inch wire staggered in the center of the loom so as not to stack junctions, and so we maintained the original color coding. Each junction was carefully striped 1/4-inch, soldered and sealed with shrink wrap.

One shot we missed depicted the wires staggered. That's also crucial so you don't have junctions bunched together.

Note the handy wire connection holding tool that Frank had made while working alone in his garage for ten years. Trying to hold the connection together, while holding the solder and the gun is nearly impossible.

The Frank Kaisler, patent pending, wire junction tool. Send $99.99 to P.O. Box 666, Hollywood, Calif. Send only rolls of quarters.

He spoke to an engineer at one point who didn't cotton to twisting wires. He suggested that the wires be carefully mated straight on and soldered. The "Puerto Rican shrink wrap" as Frank refered to my colorful array of shrink tubing, was cut so that it would seal 3/8s of an inch on either side of the connection. Most chunks of 1/8-inch diameter shrink wrap were a pinch over an inch long.

We also washed each connection with alcohol to remove the flux, which could harm the wires or insulation, then with wet and dry sandpaper, brushed any sharp edges that might cut through the shrink wrap.

We cleaned the connections using alcohol with this brush trimmed in half to make the bristles stronger.

After each wire was carefully soldered and prepped we covered it with shrink wrap, then using Frank's handy tool we heated the area and moved onto the next stage.

Then the looms were carefully covered with additional 1/2-inch shrink wrap. Finally the bars were carefully blown out with the air compressor and wiped clean before the looms were fed into the grip ends of the bars (first we wrapped the pin connections with painter's masking tape and created a guiding point).

I used a painters masking tape to wrap the connections and form a guiding point. I didn't want to use a tape that would require awkward or violent stripping to remove it (which could damage the wiring).

Feeding the wiring into the bars from the grip end.

Once carefully pulled through the bars and the switch housings positioned, we began the process of installing the connector pins.

Gently pulling the wires from the bottom of the bars.

After making sure the wires are exactly in the right position we snugged down the torx screws, but not permanently.

While refering to the diagram on the bench we carefully replaced the wires in the bottom of each plug.

Note the wedged caps that force each wire clip into a locked position.

This depicts the same procedure from the other side of the bars. What a great shot, huh?

Only then could we snap the plug back into place on the bike. Of course the plug colors matched.

This was a nervous time. We had extended 8 and 9 wires respectively (on each side of the bars), carefully worked them through the bars and guided them out the bottom. As we replaced the plugs the sweat beaded on my brow. Had I correctly soldered each wire? Was each wire replaced in the plugs properly? Did I call a wire white with gray stripe, when it was actually white with blue stripe? It had taken almost four hours to complete the operation on the left side of the bars.

We put the levers in place just to check the position and see if we didn't blow it. It was cool.

After a needed lunch break we tackled the right side of the bars with the same procedure. Now with the wiring installed in the bars they were returned to the motorcycle. I swung my leg over the 100th anniversary Cobra-styled seat and perched my ass down. Frank turned the ignition switch on, "try it out," he said.

Torquing the bars down to 15 foot pounds. Torque the front Allens down first, then the rear according to Pablo.

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