This is wild and incredible. I’ve known Will Phillips of True
Track, Inc. for twenty years. He’s a meticulous mad scientist who
loves motorcycles. He’s a sharp engineer/designer type who
doesn’t do anything without extensive research and testing. He
designed one of the first rubbermounted Softail frames,
currently being manufactured by KuryAkin, the Rubbertail.
When he developed the True Track system I knew he
was on the right track and Bikernet Reporter, Roque, installed
one of the first models, on his new dresser. It met with wild
positive reviews. Anyone who has every ridden a touring Harley-
Davidson has experienced mild sways, insecure handling or even
high-speed wobbles. Will’s product was the missing element—
I knew, from the start, that he would investigate, test,
research and nail the problem, like no-other engineer-type
would. He discovered that all H-Ds with rubbermounted systems
should have more stabilizer links to control the unruly highway
sway. He studied systems and how to mount another link in the
most appropriate and efficient manner. He succeeded. This
installation shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes and make all
the difference in the world of touring handling.
The rear black anodized True-Track bracket in
place under the tranny.
Before I jump into the simple installation, Cycle
World performed a product evaluation and here’s a couple
When an FL is banking though a turn, the normal lateral
forces of cornering try to push the rear wheel out of line with the
front. On other motorcycles, the swingarm pivot is solidly
mounted, thereby preventing any significant lateral rear-wheel
movement. But on an FL, the rubber swingarm-pivot bushings
will easily deform under such loads.
The True Track allows the entire rubber-mounted
drivetrain to move freely in a longitudinal plane but not side-to-
(After installation) On the same bumpy curves that had
the rear of the stock FL oscillating like a high-speed hula
dancer, the bike tracked accurately and steadily with the True-
Track installed. Even when going straight, the chassis seemed to
react less noticeably to smaller road features such as pavement
transitions and off-camber surfaces.
At $395, the True-Track isn’t cheap, and tack on
another $40 if you need to have a mechanic install it. But for
riders who experience the occasional cornering “moment” on
their 1994-2005 FLs, the peace of mind the True-Track
provides could qualify it as one of he best investments they’ve
I couldn’t have said it better. I’ll point out that this part is
precision manufactured, anodized billet aluminum with all
stainless fasteners. It’s very well built.
Here’s where you’re working, behind and below
So let’s mount the sucker. First we cleaned off the frame
cross member under the transmission. We needed to remove any
grit and grime from the bottom and the top. Will also requested
that we check if for straightness. It’s the first frame component
to suffer damage while rolling off a curb. Our King felt such pain
and a corner of the 90 degree lip was smacked. With a
screwdrive and pressure we were able to slip the True-Track in
place. Will warned that using the dog bone bracket to straighten
the frame member may damage the bracket—straighten it first.
We used a 1/8-inch drive ratchet, and extension
and ball-point Allens to reach under the bike.
The unit comes with tight, but complete instructions and
diagrams. Next, we cleaned off the oil bag and removed the
three Allens off the back and two more off the sides. There are
plenty of Allens still supporting the container, so it wasn’t going
to leak, be damaged or need a new gasket during this operation.
I have a couple of Loctite opening tools. If you use
the caps, the fluid often dries in the tip. I sharpened a couple of
pieces of brass rod and placed them around the shop.
We cleaned around the Allen holes, put some blue
Loctite on the new ¼-20, 3.75-inch long stainless Allens and
replaced them with the True-Track large cage bracket, starting
with the rear center stainless Allen and washer. Without
tightening any of the bolts we ran them all up into place.
Once all the Allens were in place we tightened them and Will
recommends that you torque them to 7-9 foot pounds of
torque. We had a tough time fitting the torque wrench with all
the links to run the final Allen, so we twisted them snug.
Black Market John installing the screws.
Next, we made sure the Heim joint was loose. In bold type
in the instructions Will pointed out that the True-track was
assembled at the plant and doesn’t need disassembly for
installation. So we left the pieces linked together. We slipped the
disc plugs between the tranny and the frame rail with the
smaller diameter down. They slipped right into place. The
instructions told us to watch for a pin that was notched into the
disc, but we didn’t run across one.
Here’s the disc plug for the top of the frame
member, on Will’s instructions.
We started with the counter-sunk stainless 3/8-16 Allen on
the right side first. Once it was started we threaded the fastener
on the left into place with Loctite. While they were still loose we
check the rear stablizer link to make sure there wouldn’t be any
strain on it while we tightened the Allens. Once we determined
that it was in a neutral position, the Allens pulled the dog bone
bracket securely into place. They could be tightened to 30
pounds of Torque.
The final touch was to tighten the left and right jam nuts on
the stabilizer link against the turnbuckles. They are left and
right-handed threads and we used a 9/16 open-end wrench.
Done deal. As Will said, “The power train can move up and
down, the way it was designed to do, no more rearsteer.”
There’s that Stabilizer link in place. The adjuster
is in the center, with the jam nuts on the outside. For tech
questions call (818) 623-0697
11490 Burbank Blvd. #6E
North Hollywood, CA 91601
This part could save your ass and hers.