Progressive's lowering kit and the tools needed.
Tail Gunner Here, This month we tackle the dreaded front end lowering kit. I say dreaded because the average BYM would never attempt this mod. But I’m here to tell you, it’s not as hard as you might imagine it to be. For this mod, my friend Andy choose to go with the Progressive front end 1 to 2 inch lowering kit for his 2010 Street Glide.
The 2010 street glide already has 1” shaved off the rear stock, so this seemed to be the perfect set up for him; the entire bike will be 1” lower all around. Let's get started; first we need to raise the bike up far enough to get the entire front end off (less fairing). We went ahead and removed the front wheel assembly, front fender, brake calipers and the sensor for the ABS (left).
Make sure you jack the bike high enough to release the fork tubes later on.
We used zip ties to hold the calipers back out of the way. Next remove the ignition key lock and small cover around it from the fairing to expose the top of the yoke and fork tubes. We left the fork tubes secure in the yoke until the top nut is loosened, you’ll need a 1 3/8” (34mm) box/open end wrench to break the nut free.
After that is done, go ahead and loosen the 9/16 pinch bolt on the yoke, the entire fork tube will drop freely from the bike. Make sure you have the bike raised high enough so that the tube has room to drop out unobstructed. Be careful; keep the tube in the upright position, as it is still full of fork fluid.
Don’t remove it all the way, as your fluid will drain. Now flip the tube around and secure the upper portion of the tube (don’t scratch or mar the chrome, be very careful) in the vice tight enough so you can get a wrench on the two sided top of the cartridge, be careful, the spring is under pressure, while loosening the cartridge, keep pressure on the top. This will prevent the spring from taking off across the garage when it’s finally loose (right).
Remove the entire cartridge, then tip the entire tube upside down into a catch pan or bucket. The fluid, spring, damper, emulator and bottoming spring will drop out once you tip it into the catch pan. Drain the tube as much as possible. WOW, a lot of parts we’re not reusing!
For the one inch drop, Progressive uses three spacers and the longer bottoming spring
We secured the bottom of the fork tube in the vice again at a slight angle upwards, and slid the entire unit in. Then install and tighten the damper hex screw, torque to values in the installation instructions supplied. Then reposition the tube so that the top of the tube is in the vice (below).
Add 5oz of fork fluid as per instructions and push and turn the cartridge until the threads catch, then tighten and torque per instructions. Reinstall the tube using the supplied new chrome top nut, we tightened the nut hand snug, then the pinch bolt and finally torque the top nut and pinch bolt to required torque value. We did one tube at a time, made it a little easier. After both tubes were done, reassemble the front end, it just that simple. The whole project took us two hours, less the hour and half we drove around looking for a 1 3/8’ wrench (which we had all along) just look in the tool box dumb ass!
Suppliers for this product:
Progressive Suspension P/N 31-2501 $399.95
Bikers Choice P/N 77-9006 $339.99
Drag Specialties P/N 0414-0380 $399.95
Custom Chrome P/N 693900 $339.99