First find front cylinder top dead center TDC as we described before with the straw (won't hurt anything) in the sparkplug hole, after the intake valve begins to close. The notch on the cam shaft will be at 7:00 at TDC and you know that you're cool. There should also be a straight verticle line in the timing hole, another confirmation.

First you need to remove any previous ignition system right down to the cam shaft. Now bolt in the Compu-Fire ignition rotor or trigger wheel with some blue Loctite. Giggie then bolted in the Compu-Fire ignition plate and turned in counter clockwise. After you run the wire loom out the bottom of the Rev Tech cone. Dig out a 12-volt battery and hook the red wire to the positive terminal.

Tape off the black, white and green wires so they don't ground or short to the battery. Power the red wire up with a ground link to the bike. The LED light on the Compu-Fire plate will alight.

Grab the magnet that comes with the kit and hold it with the Harley orange dot away from the plate and swipe the magnet left to right along the bottom of the plate. The light should go out, if not, turn the magnet over and try again. Slowly turn the plate clockwise until the exact moment the light goes on again. You're timed, done deal, simple. You've static timed the bike in its advanced position. Lock the plate down and disconnect the battery.

You wire this with with the red wire heading to he ignition switch. It's the hot wire. The Black wired hauls ass to the front coil, the white wire to the rear coil and the green to the VOES switch. That's the single-fire set up. For Dual fire aim the black wire to the coil and tape off the white wire. The green is guided to the VOES advance switch once more. Giggie likes the VOES switch and I'll try to explain why. I would prefer to throw it in the trash, but nooo. We will install the VOES switch in the wiring tech, later.

I like the concept of single fire for a smoother running engine and separate coils for each cylinder for a stronger spark. Some may say, "Bullshit." But that's my notion of single-fire ignitions. This unit has two switches, let's start with the left. You turn it to dual or single-fire and it has eight advance curves. One to three are set for 35 degrees BTDC advance. Four to six are 32 degrees of total timing, seven is 30 degrees and eight is 28. There are three different curves bringing the engine to total advance at different RPMs, one is 1,500, 2 at 2,000 and three at 2,500, based on the motor. We set it at six because I'll be running the VOES.

The right switch controls the VOES. You can have it set at 50 percent or 100 percent. Fifty percent is advanced 5 degrees and 100 percent, 10 degrees. It adds timing at necessary times but will never add timing over the advanced maximum. The final setting on the right is the Rev Limiter. The best use of the rev limiter is to set it 500 rpms past peak power. That means some testing is needed to use it effectively. No problem. It's designed to prevent over revving the motor because of a missed shift. The right hand switch controls the VOES and the rev limiter. That's it goddamnit. I can't believe I made it to the end. We just hauled the Amazing Shrunken FXR to our master metal fabricator, James Famaghetti for final craftsmanship. We need to install a Sportster kickstand kit from Custom Chrome and Giggie's controls, then it's the three "P"s, paint, powder and plating and this puppy will rock. Hang on. We'll be back in a couple of weeks. --Bandit

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