This is nuts. Only 16 states have passed laws against talking on cell phones or texting while driving. USA Today said, "Fortunately, the U.S. Senate is now considering legislation that would deny federal highway funds to states that don't outlaw texting behind the wheel. Sorry, but the ban would be unenforceable."

Good god. I'm trying to concentrate on a tech here. We fought and won against the government blackmailing states 20 years ago, but they still pull the same extortion shit.

Jeremiah flew over to the Bikernet headquarters crying about his leaking motorcycle, and all the women who constantly hound him. Both his transmission main shaft oil seal and his engine sprocket shaft seals were leaking. First, I looked into the cause. "Wear and age are the main factors," said Bob Bennett from Bennett's Performance in Long Beach. I've over-filled a couple of 4-speed transmissions and blew out perfectly good seals.

"Seals can wear into the race or visa-versa," Bob said. "Also, if you over-filled your engine oil tank regularly or set up your breather gear timing improperly, it will build pressure in the engine lower-end." We're still not sure what happened to Jeremiah, besides he's a maniac when it comes to ripping up the streets of San Pedro.

"Seals should be changed every 40-50,000 miles," Bob pointed out.

The only way to replace Seals properly, effectively and without taking a week, is to own a few JIMS tools, many of which are distributed by Biker's Choice and available through your local shop. If you don't have access to a shop, try K&G Cycles for an online shop. You can order JIMS tools directly through them.

As you will see, throughout this tech, there's serious benefits to having the proper tools at hand, and there's drawbacks when you don't have a JIMS tool drawer in your tool box.

First Jeremiah pulled his clutch and we immediately needed a special tool. I've used a valve spring collar for years to remove the clutch spring pressure plate.

Then I needed my old arm welded to an old clutch plate, to hold the clutch hub solid, to remove the left handed hub nut. It contains the clutch pushrod seal. Then the hub, the clutch basket and the plates could be removed.

The early model clutch hubs ran on a tapered shaft, and we needed a puller to pop it loose. I dug up something from my puller drawer, but JIMS makes a special unit for big twins, or step up and buy the puller tool that will yank virtually any H-D clutch hub from Sportsters to any late model clutch.

I did have the long JIMS tranny sprocket socket, that's absolutely invaluable for removing these thin unruly bastards. Don't forget to smash straight the lip on the lock washer before you drive yourself crazy.

With an impact gun we removed the tranny sprocket nut, and the engine mainshaft nut. Off came the belt drive system. Then we needed to pull off the alternator rotor. This is one of those jobs that can drive a sane man to drink. Some slip right off. As you can see we ran a couple of long 5/16-inch Allens into the supplied holes and used them as handles. It worked fine, but these can be maddening and JIMS makes a tool to remove the rotor in a New York jiffy.

We recently scored the JIMS tool for this job of removing the transmission mainshaft seal. It calls for driving two screws into the metal surface of the seal, attaching the JIMS part and using the JIMS puller to pull the seal free.

Here's some considerations: First, you don't want metal particles in your transmission. It's best to punch a slight guide hole into the soft seal casing. Then carefully drive the sheet metal screw into the case with the JIMS designed tool. Each JIMS tool is designed to handle the job efficiently without damage to the transmission case. I've seen mauled cases, after a mechanic carved out the seal, damaging the case edges and sometime the seal surface. Whatta drag.

With the JIMS guiding bracket screwed in place we were ready to get started, pulling this bastard from its home. You can see that no damage will come to the main shaft or the trans case.

As you can see the JIMS tool will pull the seal absolutely straight out of the trans case. No messin' around. The keys are those little sheet rock screws. They must be perfectly fastened. JIMS takes care of the rest.

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