2008 Dresser Exhaust Install From D&D
Tuned True Duals For Performance
Photos and text by Rogue

D & D Banner

step1
Here's the factory exhaust still in place.

When my son Dale bought a 2008 Harley FLHTCU it didn't take him long to ask me what he could do to the exhaust system.

My answer, "a lot." He needed to be more specific, but he was drunk. There's so much a guy can accomplish with a change, as different systems provide different results. What we came up with was to use a true dual system so the appearance of the motorcycle would not change drastically, and there's other benefits.

The D&D Duelie pipes (part 516-22D) were chosen because they looked good and would enhance performance by giving the rear cylinder its own pipe providing a true dual exhaust. Adding a set of D&D 3.5- inch slash cut mufflers (part 408-12S) would produce a good sound without being offensive.

It wasn’t until I actually received the exhaust that I saw the quality of construction, heavy gauge of the metal, with oxygen sensor bungs welded in place, flawless chrome, and heat shields already installed that I really became impressed. D&D offers another exhaust system benefit. Each one is dyno tested and tuned. The D&D staff are avid land speed record nuts, and their pipes are a large portion of the tuning equation. Bandit ran D&D tuned exhaust on the Assalt Weapan at Bonneville in 2007 for a top speed of 162 mph.

Step 8
Everything removed and ready for the D&D installation.

I started off by removing the saddlebags so everything was easy to reach. Next move was to remove the factory heat shield with a 5/16-1/4 drive socket (a common screwdriver may also be used).

Using a 9/16” socket I loosened the clamps at the mufflers and sprayed the joints with PB Blaster penetrating oil. While it was working I went to the rear of the muffler and used a 1/2 inch socket to remove the two bolts from the muffler bracket under the bags. The muffler was removed by shaking loose and pulling on the stuck bastards. Exhaust does nasty shit to fasteners and connections, be patient.

I disconnected the wiring for the Oxygen Sensors but opted not to remove them from the pipe until I had it off the bike. It's always a good notion to disconnect the battery. It wouldn't seem to be necessary in this case, but if sonny boy had a brand new exhaust system in his hands and caused a short with the pipe across the starter and paniced, he could drop and damage the pipe.

From the left side of the motorcycle using a 3/8 ball end Allen, with a extension, I removed the right floorboard where the brackets joined the frame under the bike. Removing the clamp on the pipe by the transmission and the two nuts holding the pipe to the head it came off easily.

The pipe on the left side was removed in the same manner. It should be noted that the bracket tab on the rear exhaust support bracket was also removed. There was no need to remove the exhaust flange off the old pipes as the new pipes have them on already. Lots of new exhaust systems don't come with shit from the factory, but that's not the case with D&D. They supply most of the fasteners, spacers for the floor boards and mufflers, the flanges in place and the heat shields installed. You just need the exhaust flange nuts and new exhaust head gaskets.

Step 9
New exhaust gasket carefully installed.

With the factory system removed the exhaust gaskets were replaced in the head and the Oxygen Sensors were removed from factory pipes and installed into the new ones. A small amount of Anti-Seize was applied to the threads with care taken not to get any on the sensor tip! I torqued them to 30-44 Foot lbs.

Step 11
Take a close look. I see some Anti-Seize on the tip…

The right side pipe was fitted to the head. All the fasteners were installed all the way to the muffler loose and checked for position and fit before tightening, beginning at the manifold and working back. Then using a ˝-inch 3/8-drive socket the top nut tightened. I was pleasantly surprised to find a cut out in the heat shield for the bottom nut that allowed the socket to fit without the problems that I have experienced with other systems. Clearances were checked and the bottom nut on flange tightened to 100-120 inch lbs. followed by the top one to the same specifications.

Step 12
If the sensor is not disconnected from the system, we would be forced to twist the wire lead counter clockwise several revolutions before screwing it into the bung.

The tranny bracket welded to the pipe fit the bracket on the transmission without shimming. The muffler slid in with ease and could be felt to bottom out on pipe lip. The clamp was tightened enough to hold muffler in place as the two black spacers provided in kit were installed under the saddle bag hanger to align the muffler with the entire system. Some bikes need the spacers, others don't. The bolts were torqued to 96- 144 inch lbs while alternating tightening. The muffler clamp was not fully tightened at this time.

Step 14
Most mechanics wear gloves to protect their delicate skin, but Rogue does it to protect the chrome finish.

Step 14g

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