| Bandit was alongside the freeway once more in bumper to bumper traffic with his ill-fated touring chopper. Splitting lanes at 11:00 p.m. heading for Laughlin and wondering why aren't all the car-people nestled in their stinkin' beds and off his freeways. The bike sputtered and coughed. First sporadically then the reoccuring nightmare coughed again. He nursed it across four lanes stumbling from one gap in the traffic to another until he was safely off the freeway in an emergency lane. Safely, yeah right. Thundering 18-wheelers bristling past less than 6 inches from his boney ass as he tried to figure out what the fuck was going on. First he yanked the gas line off the petcock only to spray the sizzling 98-inch S&S motor with fresh highly igniteable fuel.
You know the scenario. Covered with gas as the scorching motor ticked and wrenches created sparks in the night, he worked to find out what the hell was wrong with the West Coast Choppers bike this time. The line was clear. The filter unobstructed, the float bowl working. So a flatbed was called and he returned to his roots and wrenches in San Pedro. One of his first calls was to Giggie and Compufire who makes charging systems, ignition systems and starter motors, all distributed by Custom Chrome. "I told you to shitcan that ignition system some time ago," Giggie said, "I'm coming over."
Bandit felt in his Jack Daniels filled gut, that it was definitely a carburetion problem, but couldn't be sure. "Haven't you always wanted to run a single fire ignition?" Giggie said.
"Well, sure," Bandit said. He hadn't slept in three days working on the Touring Chop for the Laughlin River Run, only to spend a lonely night along side the 605 Freeway. "I suppose."
"Don't move," Giggie instructed, "I'll be right there."
"I can't," Bandit said making room on his work bench to catch a few zz's, "I'm broken down remember."
Giggie eyed the receiver with a strange glare and hung up. With a bundle of dirty rags as a pillow Bandit went to sleep on the work bench. Two hours later, Giggie pulled his FXR into the Bikernet Village on the Los Angeles Harbor. "What the fuck are you doing?" Giggie said waking Bandit up while he lay on the concrete deck of the garage. Bandit had rolled off the bench in a fitfull, uncomfortable dream and fell 4-feet to the deck. Knocked unconsious, he remained comotose until the Gigmiester arrived. "Why aren't you in bed?"
"You said not to move. Besides let's get this bastard running. I need to ride." Bandit said and went back to sleep.
Giggie and I rolled the Touring Chop out of the shop and into the sunlight to tear into it, and to let the big guy sleep off another whiskey drunk, although we wonder, in Bandit's case, whether that's ever possible. Compufire supplies very complete and comprehensive instructions with their unit.
| This 21835 Street High-Compression Ignition system with two single-fire coils works with the stock VOES switch (photo 1). The instructions cover every aspect of installation, and timing the system. So we went for it. |
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Photo 1
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First, you need to remove the old ignition system including the trigger plate in the cone. Clean the cone throughout and change the seal if needbe. Of course disconnect the battery and take the plugs out. Now put the engine at top dead center. Note the notch on the end of the cam in the cone. It should be at approximately 7:00. If it's not you're in trouble. Do it again. Keep in mind that there is a top dead center for each piston. You need to set the engine for TDC front cylinder compression stroke. Now replace the motormount with the one that comes with the dual coil bracket and cover (Photo 2).
Photo 2
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In this case we replaced the VOES switch because it adds advance to make the engine run more efficiently during idling and cruising, 5 degrees at 50 percent VOES and 10 degrees at 100 percent VOES.
Photo 3
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The VOES switch can be adjusted (photo 3) with a vacuum pump and a multi-meter, with 89-98-inch motors set it at 5.5 inches of vacuum. There is a set screw in the end of the switch that can be adjusted to reach the correct vacuum. First you need to dig out the seal material. |
Once it's adjusted (put the ohm meter across the leads and watch for the switch to close) take a dab of silicon seal and fill the hole. Work it in to prevent screw movement and to seal the hole. This VOES adjustment advances the timing to prevent loading or pinging when running at a steady RPM.
Photo 4
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Now, install the new trigger rotor (photo 4), and install the ignition module. Secure the Compu-Fire trigger Rotor with a socket head screw and flat washer supplied using blue Loc-tite. Align the locating pin with the notch in the cam. Torque the screw to 25-inch pounds. Don't rotate the engine until the timing procedure is complete. Install the Elite 1 ignition module using the two stand-offs just tight enough so that the module can be rotated to set the timing. Locate the module with the V-notch in the module over the V-grooved area in the housing. If at anytime you run across a problem or unanswerable question fire up the internet and go to www.compufire.com.
Leaving the engine at top dead center rotate the ignition module counter-clockwise until it stops. Take the red wire from the ignition module straight to hot side of the battery to fire this puppy up, temporarily. Use the three magnets with the orange dot facing you and swipe them across the bottom of the unit where rpm limits are listed. That will cut the red LED light off. Now, slowly rotate the module clockwise until the LED light comes back on--very slowly. Once it comes on lock the two stand-offs down, 'cause the timing is set. You're ready to rock.
Unhook the power wire from the battery and hook it to the power side of the coils. Black wire is the trigger wire for the the front cylinder, white is the trigger of the rear cylinder. And the red wire runs from the ignition module to the hot side of one coil with a jumper to the other coil. Now run a wire from the hot side of the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil.
Take the green wire to either side of the VOES switch and the other side goes to chassis ground.
Photo 5
Now you choose the setting for your motorcycle and go for a ride. Stock compression motors should use selections 1 through 3 (all 35 degrees and different rpm lock-ins). Settings 4-8 for performance motors (3 setting are at different rpms at 32 degrees, number 7 is set for 30 degrees and 8 at 28 degrees). They allow you to alter the timing to avoid pinging and enhance performance.
You might try the middle setting for your motor and ride the bike for a week. Check the plugs, feel your acceleration level and whether the bike responds in a crisp fashion or not. If not, try another setting based on the manufacturer's recommendations and rock. No time to lose.
--Wrench |
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