The following report is an e-mail correspondence between Bandit, Paul, & Anson. If you can't follow it - chew Bandit's ass by taking Your Best Shot.

Are you pulling the swingarm or is a qualified Buell wrench doing it? If you are gonna do it I can send/fax you some info with destructions. You would need a cherry picker or something to hold up the frame. A shipping strap around a low ceiling joist will work also. A frabricated "A" frame bolted to your lift is another good option.

I'm sure you can do it no problem, you just need certain tools and stuff. Also, polishing the Buell cast wheels really looks good. Makes a big improvement.

I want to build a Shovester. My plan was to use two front Shovel heads and run a carb for each head. Like S&S did on their Bonneville bike. Trock had a complete Shovester with his cylinders and paper for $1,500 a few years ago. Another cool project I passed up.

--Paul Davis

BUELL REPORT PART II-- You might be able to do the Shovester Buell.

I have found that there is always one part of a project that is the key to the whole damn thing. In this case, it is the front cyl. head. You could weld up the front motor mount bosses needed to hang the motor in the frame. It would be better to have a head cast or machined with the bosses already there for strength, though.

The RR1000 Buell used a XR1000 motor. It had the dual carbs, one for each cyl. The frame was mounted to the rocker boxes. They were the XR750 type rocker box with the eccentric adjustable rocker shafts.

Awhile back, I contacted Rogue. He was selling 4-valve heads and parts for them. I have wanted to put these on my S2 Buell since I bought it in '94. By the way, it's $200 off the line. There are some out there for Sportsters. Mel from Rivera had a Sportster with Mr. Feuling's heads awhile back.

My thinking was that a big bore short stroke Sportster motor would really like these heads. What stopped me from continuing on this was the strain on the valve train. What would happen to the rocker arms at 7,500 to 8,500 and more rpm's? Unfortunately, and maybe it's for the best, I don't have the cash to experiment with a project like this.

I think that a 103 Stroker Twin Cam rigid would be cool. Maybe with a Buell front end and fender. I've seen one guy use a Buell style fuel tank like yours on a rigid chopper. I think he was from Sweden. Saw him at Cinc'y.

Anyway I'll fax you the Buell swingarm recall bulletin next week. This shows you how to replace one with all the destructions.

BUELL REPORT PART III--

If you are interested in a definite improvement in your 2000 M2 shifting and brake linkage, I recommend the installation of the bronze bushings available from American Sport Bike in Apple Valley, Calif. Web address: www.americansportbike.com. The bushings replace the stock plastic and get rid of the stock rattle and the excess play. The set installs in a few minutes and costs $30. While the 2001 gear shift may be prettier, the M-2 2001 shifter has a shorter throw, making it harder to shift. With the bronze bushing kit installed, the longer, pre-2001 shifter results in positive shifting with minimal foot effort. Finding neutral is also a snap as a result.

--Anson

BUELL REPORT PART IV--

If you have the newer style swingarm, it's hollow, don't drill it. About the best thing you can do, I think, is polish it. Polishing seems to be what the "Jap" bike guys do. I don't like to chrome aluminum. It's done all the time, but it's just a personal thing I guess.

I didn't follow you on the "Levers" and whatever to remove. Removing the passenger footpeg mounts from the frame is pretty common. One can go on and on I guess. It just depends on the look you're going for. I gotta see this "Chopper" Buell from Bandit. This just might start a new trend. Would this Buell then qualify to be in the Horse magazine?

This coming weekend, we are having a open house. They are also doing some Buell stuff. We have a Hooters next door and they usually bring the sweeties over to help out some. That customer of ours that had the Silver "Millennium" Buell" that I sent you in February just got one of the older Buells. It's an RR1200. Not many of these were made in 1988, about 60 or 65. This is a pretty cool bike and in reasonable shape. Should have some good pictures of all this for you.

BUELL REPORT PART V--

From the picture you posted showing the muffler, the recall is NOT done.

The recall consists of a big strap around the muffler. Its location will be just behind the first riveted band on the muffler on the inlet end of the muffler. The big strap goes around the muffler itself. It's the same type of strap used to clamp the muffler to the header pipe.

The strap is then anchored to the primary by a short cable with an eyelet that goes from the strap to the 5/16 socket head cap screw (front one); there are two. These are located on the bottom of the primary cover by the primary chain adjuster nut. I think, like me, you won't like this. A Buell chin fairing from the X-1 hides it pretty good, by the way.

Buell did this because the weld where the inlet pipe attaches to the muffler was failing. This could cause the muffler to drop down and hit the street while riding--a big "Oh shit" here.

As I was looking at the picture of the cam cover, I noticed some things. Now that the oil pump and lines are out in the open, this is an area that could be dressed up some to stay with the bike theme you are going with. Braided oil lines, etc. Maybe a polished oil pump. What do you think? The chrome rocker boxes look pretty good also.

BUELL REPORT PART VI--

Checking the oil is a simple thing on Harleys most of time. It is on the Buell once you get it the hang of it.

Always try to check it with the bike warmed up and standing upright. Push the rubber plug all the way in. I keep the oil in the middle between the add and full mark on the dip stick.

It is easy to overfill this oil tank if you don't check it like I said. Then you get oil coming out the air cleaner all over your right leg. See, the oil drains back from the tank when the bike sits for a time. So when you check it cold, it looks low in the tank and on the dip stick. After you start the bike, the oil level comes up and when it's at operating temp, that's when you really should check it.

Also, it's a good idea to use the longer Dyna-style oil filter. It has more capacity than the short stock oil filter. This adds some to the 2 1/2 in the oil tank. I use a black one, not chrome, better for cooling.

One other thing is to make sure your primary oil is not over filled. They changed the location of the breather hose for the tranny. I keep it on the newer models just below the clutch basket, just a bit. If the level is above then it seems to want to blow out the tranny breather hose.

Don't know how hot it will be out there. In Phoenix I used a oil cooler. If you have low miles try to stay out of the street traffic. You don't want to stick a piston out there.

That recall for the muffler only takes maybe a half hour, if they have it in stock.

--Paul Davis

BUELL REPORT PART VII--

Just looked at the "Badlands" Buell. The pictures really looked good!! That along with the "Ink" made it killer. It left me a Buell rider wanting to see more of the bike.

The cam cover came out good and leaving the rear dowel pin boss was a wise move. Also the air cleaner cover looks good. How do you like the Buell pipe???? It works really good huh? I like a SuperTrapp muffler myself. More tuning options for me.

For Sturgis you might want to try a 55 tooth rear pulley. It's a Buell International P/N. You probably have the motor now for it. It drops the RPM's about 500 or so. Good for mileage and "High Speed Gear Jammin" down the road. You leave those Big Inch. Big Twin slugs in the dust!!!!

Also the Baker Buell Six Speed Install would be a great addtion to the bike and your articles. Just did a six speed tranny for a Nascar guy.

--Paul Davis