With that in mind, we decided to make the move ourselves and report our experience here on Bikernetmetric.com.

• Factor the cost of the bars, new cables and/or hydraulic lines, new grips and installation costs into the overall pricing decision.
• If you plan on riding long distances it's important to understand that with the higher apes, it'll require an adjustment to increased wind resistance and decreased blood flow to your arms and hands.
• Make sure that the apes you choose will fit with your current risers, if not then you'll need to buy a pair that will do the trick.
• Make sure to consult someone with experience when deciding on cable/hydraulic line lengths. As a general rule of thumb, mock up your new apes and run your existing cables & lines upward toward the switch housings, throttle and brake levers. Then attach some string from the end of your existing set up to the termination point. Measure the string length used to determine your "over stock" length requirements. Always a good idea to add 1"-1.5" to your measurements to allow for extra play.
• Start to finish, this project can take up to 4 hours or more even if done by a professional. That said, don't rush the prep time or the job itself, it'll be well worth it in the end.

Remove one piece at a time and remember what parts and screws go where...you don't want to come up short or with too many parts left over when the job is complete.

Basically the first goal is to remove the stock bars, let the hydraulic lines and cable dangle, then clip the electrical wires at an even point from the switch housings.

You'll want to start by carefully removing the top covers/clamps on the stock risers to detach the existing handlebars from the bike. You'll want to disassemble the switch housings from both ends of the stock handlebars. Next is removal of the throttle cables from the right side grips & clutch cables from the left side levers. Hydraulic clutch and brake lines should be removed but remain in tact for the moment.

We really wanted to clean up the front end of the bike which makes hiding electrical wiring inside the bars was a must. The 1.25" diameter handlebar tubing and slotted openings near the grip ends made the task a bit easier. Getting the internal wiring done right IS the single most time consuming part of this process. Making a mistake here is like sewing the patient back up and finding out you attached the wrong arteries, that patient just may not get out of bed!

Make sure to only use shielded wires and avoid crimp connectors if possible. Soldering wires with heated shrink wrap will eliminate the potential of a crimp connection vibrating loose after miles and miles of road vibration. Take the time to safely install wires under the clutch perch. De-bur all wires and cables & make sure there are no rough edges or any sharp parts that can damage wire or cables.

Everyone has their own take on the best way to get all those wires through the handlebars. We've found that if you attach a string to one end of the wiring, plug the other end of bar, put the string down the middle, then blow into the bar...the string will come through a little easier.

Now that the electrical is complete, it's time to take a much needed break and admire your hard work. Did someone say "lunch?"

OK so put down that tasty meal and let's get back to work. It's time to remove all of the cables and hydraulic lines and replace them with some shiny new braided steel.

A couple of key points to remember:

All cables/lines need to have a little bit of give or free play.

Cables,(clutch, brake and throttle), are much easier to install than hydraulic brake and clutch lines. So start with the cables first and finish with the hydraulic lines.

Add brake fluid and bleed the lines as
the last step. Speed bleeders are a must

Brake fluids can be corrosive to paint so be careful to protect your bike while filling and bleeding the lines. If any fluid does get on the paint, quickly use some water and a cotton cloth to remove the fluid. Water is supposed to dilute the acid or corrosiveness in the brake fluid.

Now it's time to button things up. Install the throttle side grips first by inserting the two cables, (push/pull or throttle/idle), into the throttle grip or grip sleeve. Secure in place with the switch housing and test the throttle for proper operation.

Trouble shooting and preventative measures: