Okay, we had a plan, like a musician with a blank sheet of music paper and a rhythm running through his mind. I had a notion based on every element I absorbed on the salt in 2006 and a myriad of conversations since. Time is also a constant obstacle and since I’m a deadline freak, I set one. I wanted the roller, frame, wheels and front end in my hands close to the end of the year. At this writing session, in my unheated shop the day after Christmas, with a dinky desk warmer blowing under my chair, I have six days left. No pressure...

My first wheel guy bailed and I’m waiting for a call from Kim Hotinger regarding American and Renegade Wheels. Leo DiOrio, Leos Custom Cycle Supply, Ph# 303 438 8991,           is poised to fabricate our girder front end, to deliver the exact trail requested, and Rick Krost has a frame in stock from U.S. Choppers, to be modified, but we needed to nail down our plan, which is critical. We must determine the stretch behind the tranny and up front so Valerie Thompson will be poised for 200 mph on the salt. She must work with the machine’s aerodynamics for the best speed, comfort and safe handling. We're not asking much.

We are extremely fortunate to have an excellent team behind us who are ecstatic to dig for precise performance information. Our concept drawing slipped through a number of stages behind the talented hands of Chris Kallas our 5-Ball Racing Official, accredited and sanctioned artist. With each rendition I submitted the most-excellent art to Berry Wardlaw, the Accurate Engineering engine master, Leo DiOrio, Wil Phillips and often Rodan from the SCTA, for rule requirements. Below you will stumble on thoughts from various team members regarding girder handling, Valerie’s measurements, the engine and the concept progression from art to actual measurements.

Leo DiOrio On Girders:

I am ready to start doing the front end, so when the frame is finished, and we have some tire diameters to work with we can do the actual geometry. I will make some recommendations as we go down that road here is one or two of many things we should think about as we go so the whole thing comes together nicely does the frame maker have any models or prints or samples of the neck he uses? This will aid in the fork stop and stem configuration, also has Valerie given you any input on how much steering effort goes into driving on the salt the reason I ask is if we want to do something special in the the way of handle bars I would make provisions for that in the top clamp. I would think this might come into play when mocking up her riding position to create the mold.

I won’t throw all girders into this discussion without studying a few (how they work trail wise category) however I can tell simply how this one works, and here are some key points:

1. the center of the wheel is much further ahead of the centerline of the steering head.

2. Since we have twice as many links triple clamps and control arms and the shock resting within this mechanism, that isn't required to be relative in angle to the girder blades, as opposed to a conventional front end which consists of a pair of triple clamps and suspension system always running on centerline to the fork tubes. So we can increase the trail by moving either the upper clamps offset forward, or using what is effectively a longer upper control arm, or by doing the opposite of all that on the lower links (triple clamp control arms), and of course, the opposite of all that is designed to decrease the trail. With all those links and the shock position controlling the relationship angle of the suspension to the surface you are riding on, if you use all those links and shock position you can tailor the front-end to do whatever is best for the application.

There is a lot more to them, so much it will just make you sleepy.

As far as measuring it goes, as the frame gets to where we can get some dimensions, I will do all the length and trail calculations and travel requirements in the computer. This will tell me what to make, so when Valerie returns from her 200 MPH cruise, she will say it was like driving a towncar for a Lincoln commercial.

Rogers Goldammer’s bike had 5.5 inches of trail, however it’s a lot lighter than the Assalt Weapan, although Valerie is much lighter than Rodger and we are looking for higher speeds than Rodger hit. We should run more trail.

Do you and the crew believe there are faster wheel patterns than others in the world of every little bit helps? I think the fender design will effect what wheel pattern works best once you get the wheel pattern worked out I will be glad to take on hub design if you wanted It just makes sense I'm doing the front axle assembly. One last thing, and it’s no big deal.

Now Let’s Hear From Rick Krost (as in toast), of U.S. Choppers:

Dig it...... I have some crazy ideas (usually just because I refuse to listen to anyone).... but I would like to see some 200mph bikes if you have any pics (pass them my way). I'm really thinking there is a lot of innate streamlining in my frame.... I keep looking at our sketch (nothing taken away from Chris and his art), but I think that thing will catch more wind than a sail. In my mind, I envision the front wheel tighter to the mass of the bike (i.e. more rake in trees-less in neck, or offset the wheel even).

Secondly, my thoughts on the low to the ground deal (I agree- but only somewhat)...... I would think that if you push the wind down in front- then it should stay down until exit at rear. However, there is nothing wrong with wind chasing a pattern like you see in mother nature around cliffs etc (Lake Powell)..... wind can actually increase velocity in a cone!! So my thoughts are more at directing the wind rather than just "getting low". IE- if we direct the wind UP in front of the bike and to the SIDE, we then transition it to a point in the tail section which would mirror my frame lines- this will channel the wind into a pinpoint exit versus hitting a giant cowl and dragging.

So I picture Valerie laying down, the wind deflected just to her helmet, following down her back into a small rear "turtle" point (wind now hugging and traveling down). Conversely, the wind pushed to the side from the tire and front end gets directed not down, but across the side of the bike and frame rails then directed up the frame rails to a point on the rear "turtle" that merges it with the top wind flow, so that both directed wind flows exit at the same tip (Just like an airplane).

Regarding down force, I say we fill the camel (turtle) with sand..... with both her feet and sand over the tire- I think the rear end will sit pat.

Heck, I don't know, just a thought to throw your way. Let me know what your thoughts are.... remember I'm a ghetto mechanic.

--Rick
U.S. Choppers
2039 S. Lyon St
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-546-4699
Appointments Only Please
http://www.uschopper.com/

Here’s Berry Wardlaw of Accurate Engineering on The Engine:

The engine I am building now is NOTHING like your street engine. I'm really shooting for over 200 hp. Now that's pressure. I have gathered a mountain of information and John (Andrews) is building the camshaft but he is also doing 4 other custom grinds and the Crocker cams, so I know that will take 5-6 weeks. I do however have your heads, the titanium valves, springs, etc..."

Reliability is why I am taking pain staking measures in machining, assembly, reading, asking questions, researching, etc. We can't win if we can't finish. The aluminum rods will absorb some of the shock load when we hit the 100-150 hp shot of nitrous. We will definitely work the nitrous loads up VERY carefully. Remember we need two exhaust gas temperature gauges, one for each pipe, so when we hit the nitrous she can watch the temperature to make sure the nitrous is working. If the nitrous fails she will simply let off the button.

I am on my way home to finish the last details of the engine on the computer then on to the flow bench. Aluminum, titanium, magnesium, beryllium, nitrous Panhead. Say that three times fast. No word yet on my/your cam from John. This is going to be the nicest engine I have ever built, God I hope it works! Hey, do we get to ride it after the "Girl"?

We are working with S&S for the following components although later, we discovered, some of the elements didn’t fit into our formula.

1. Aluminum rod set, 8.000", .927 wrist pin. #34-7222.
2. 1.500" tapered crank pin w/nuts for 1981-up flywheels. #34-2180.
3. 1981-up 4.500" stroke flywheels, stock diameter for 1.500" crankpin.

Talked to Mil. I already had the S&S ignition and the reverse gears for your engine. Right now I am trying to hustle S&S out of a set of aluminum rods, Axtell out of some free cylinders and blank pistons. Hell, I'm lookin' fer' anything free.

--Berry

We are working on an article about Berry's engines, his performance philosophies and guidelines for a 2007 Panhead motor. Hang on for that one.

--Bandit

The V-Rod Connection:

I can tell from the art that the possibilities for great things are emerging. Are you still planning on not using a front brake? A V-Rod headlight might make for some good streamlining based on its shape. Not that it is any of my biz except if you use a headlight I should make provisions to mount it.

Ask the frame maker, if between 32 to 34 degrees of rake fits into the plan. We can achieve the desired trail with almost any rake; however if we keep the rake in this range, it will make the gap between the rear of the front wheel and the front of the motor smaller to help with the overall aerodynamics.

--Leo DiOrio
Leos custom cycle supply
Ph# 303 438 8991

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